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This image also exemplifies the author's preference for "close-up" in ranges close to life size. She does not neglect more highly magnified photomacrographs and photomicrographs, the former roughly life size on a 35mm film frame and the latter much more greatly magnified. But most of the book is devoted to images you might get using the "macro" settings on a lens with a macro range…that's most zoom lenses these days (On cameras with a scene wheel, the "macro" setting looks like a tulip).
It became clear while perusing the book—it is a reference book, not something one just sits and reads straight through—that lighting is the key issue, being much more important than the type of lens or camera. The second-most important piece of device is a solid tripod, or several. While it is possible to take good close-ups by available light, and even hand-held, the author makes it clear that the smaller the subject, the steadier the camera must be, and the harder it is to get sufficient light.
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Note: the depth-of-field data are based on a 30µ circle of confusion. That is 4 pixels wide on my SLR, and more than 10 pixels wide on a typical point-and-shoot camera. For the latter, much narrower depths are the rule, requiring a circle of confusion closer to 5µ (2-3 pixels)
Every image in this richly illustrated book has technical information: lens used and magnification, plus often notes such as length of exposure or special lighting. One "still life" image of grapes in a snifter notes six light sources. Most of us try to get by with two: ambient light plus our camera's built-in flash. The take-away message: any kind of photography, particularly close-up and macro, will benefit from making a modest investment in extra sources of light, whether a lamp on a stand or a slave flash unit and extension cords so flashes can be positioned away from the camera. Better lighting cost less that a better camera, and gains you more.
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